Section 1: Construction

Proper knitwear care starts at construction. By using the right materials and techniques, you can create knit garments that will be more resilient to future wear and tear.

Yarn weight

Yarn weight refers to the thickness of yarn, and it significantly influences the final texture, drape, and sturdiness of your knit items.

Heavier yarn weights, such as bulky yarn, create more robust knitwear which will be more resistant to everyday wear and tear. However, the weight of bulky yarn may cause garments to stretch and lose their shape if the weight isn’t well compensated in the pattern. On the other hand, lighter yarns such as fingering yarn can be used to make intricate and delicate garments. Naturally, these yarns will also be less durable.

When choosing yarn weight, our advice is to choose the yarn size that best corresponds to the knitting pattern and final effect you’re aiming for. Once you’ve decided on the yarn weight, you can further refine your selection by narrowing down the yarn fiber you’ll use.

Yarn fiber

Yarn fiber refers to the material that yarn is made of (wool, cotton, acrylic, etc). The choice of yarn fiber is extremely important when planning a project, because it dictates whether a garment will be machine washable, whether it will pill with age, whether it will be susceptible to moth or insect damage, and so much more.

Natural animal fibers such as merino wool and alpaca are warm, elastic, and durable. These are classic choices for knit projects, and they generally hold up well over time. However, these fibers are often prone to shrinking and insect damage. When choosing natural animal fibers, make sure you follow proper washing and storage techniques.

Plant-based fibers such as cotton and linen create cool and breathable garments. However, they don’t hold their shape as well as animal fibers do. When using plant-based fibers you should ensure that your knitting pattern compensates for their stretch. These fibers can also be prone to insect damage if proper storage techniques aren’t used.

Synthetic fibers such as acrylic and nylon are a popular choice becaues of they are durable and low-maintenance. They are usually (though not always) resistant to fading and pilling, and many are machine washable. This is why they are often used for items such as baby blankets and garments, which need to be laundered frequently.

The best advice when choosing the yarn fiber for your knit project is to consider how these garments will be used and your desired maintenance level. For more information on yarn fibers, check out the Yarn Types and Fibers guide by Knitting Knowledge.

Garment shape

The shape and size of your knitted garments can affect how well they age.

Loose garments with a lot of drape are not only more prone to snags, but depending on the yarn fiber you’ve used they may continue to stretch as they are worn and washed. Because they are less supported by the body, loose garments are continuously pulled by their own weight and may become distorted over time (although this can avoided to some extent with proper blocking).

Blocking

Blocking is an important step in the knitting process, and it’s impact on garment durability cannot be understated. When done correctly, blocking helps set the stitches of your garment, even out irregularities in the tension, and refine the overall shape and texture of the fabric.

This process not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of the piece but also contributes to its long-term resilience. By allowing the fibers to relax and settle into their intended form, blocking helps prevent distortion and stretching that could potentially affect the look and fit of the knitted garment over time.

Whether you use steam blocking or wet blocking techniques will depend on the yarn fiber and the garment itself. It’s worth noting that while blocking contributes to durability, over-blocking or using excessive tension can have the opposite effect, potentially causing the fibers to weaken or fray. So it’s important to do your research on proper blocking and practice, practice, practice.

Need a walkthrought? Check out How to Block your Knitting by Knitting Knowledge.

Seaming

Seaming, the process of joining individual knitted pieces together to create an entire garment, plays a significant role in the structural integrity of a hand-knit item.

Strong seams will distribute stress evenly across the fabric, preventing garment distortion and unraveling. Careful attention to seaming is especially crucial in garments like sweaters or blankets, where seams may experience extra tension and movement during use.

The choice of seaming method also impacts the durability of the final piece. Techniques like mattress stitch or grafting create nearly invisible seams that not only enhance the aesthetic appeal of the item but also contribute to its resilience. Inversely, poorly executed seaming can lead to weak points in the fabric, making the garment more susceptible to future damage.

New to seaming? Check out Seaming 101 by Brooklyn Tweed.

Section 2: Washing

Proper washing techniques can make or break your knitwear garment. We’ve all seen sweaters that have turned to felt, or a hat that shrinks to half it’s size after washing. The knitwear care instructions below will help you avoid these heartbreaking mishaps.

Hand Washing

Hand washing is considered the gold standard when caring for knit garments. Unlike machine washing, which can subject fibers to harsh agitation and temperature changes, hand washing offers precise control over the cleaning process.

By using lukewarm water and a mild detergent specifically designed for delicate fabrics, hand washers can preserve the structural integrity of the yarn and prevent unnecessary stress on the fibers. Proper hand washing techniques also safeguard against potential shrinking, felting, or stretching of your knit garments.

Delicate knitwear, such as intricate lace shawls or cozy sweaters, benefit immensely from this meticulous care. Patting and squeezing the water out of the garment rather than wringing it helps maintain the original shape and minimizes the risk of warping or distortion.

You’ve never hand-washed knit items before? Check out this step-by-step guide by The Spruce.

Machine Washing

While some sturdier yarns and items may tolerate occasional machine washing, it’s essential to exercise caution and refer to care labels. In many cases, opting for hand washing can help preserve the beauty and longevity of hand-knitted garments.

It’s recommended to only machine-wash items when the labels indicate machine washing is OK. In addition:

• Never machine-washing items that have lace patterns or other features that may be prone to snagging or distortion.
• Ensure your knit items are washed in a delicate bag, or in a load of laundry that has no zippers, buttons, or other items that may snag.
• Use a delicate cycle and lay the item flat to dry. Putting knit items in the dryer is not recommended 99% of the time, unless otherwise indicated on the care label.

Temperature

Most knitwear care labels will specify to use lukewarm or cool water.

Hot water can cause fibers to expand and weaken, leading to distortion and loss of shape in delicate stitches. On the other hand, water that is too cold may not effectively remove dirt and oils, leaving the fabric unclean. Striking the right balance by using lukewarm water helps prevent undue stress on the fibers while still effectively cleaning the garment.

Detergents

The choice of detergent plays a crucial role in maintaining the durability of a knit garment. Harsh detergents contain strong chemicals which can weaken the integrity of the natural fibers. This means you’ll wear through your garments faster, and the fabric may be too weak to withstand future repairs.

We recommend using a mild, pH-balanced detergent specifically designed for delicate fabrics. This will preserve the strength of your hand-knit items while still giving them a thorough clean.

Section 3: Storage

Storage is a crucial part of knitwear care. Ensuring your knitwear items are properly stored will prevent insects, mold, and more.

In the closet

When storing your knit garments, you should aim for a cool, dry, and well-ventilated space. Avoid areas prone to excessive sunlight, heat, or humidity, as these conditions can cause fibers to weaken, fade, or even develop mold.

Folding, rather than hanging, is generally preferred for most knitted garments, as hanging can stretch out the fabric and lead to unwanted distortion. If hanging is necessary, use padded hangers to minimize stress on the shoulders and maintain the garment’s shape.

Seasonal storage

If you put your knitwear into storage over the summer, there are a few precautions you should take.

Before storing, make sure your knit garments are clean. Dirt and oils from normal wear can attract pests, which will quickly eat through a pile of knitwear. Ensure all items have dried to 100% before placing them in plastic storage bags or bins. If possible, vaccuum-sealed storage solutions are the best option.

Make sure your storage area is cool, dry, dark, and has adequate airflow. All of these factors will prevent deterioration of your knit garments in the form of fading, color transfer, or mold growth.

When removing items from storage, or perhaps even periodically throughout the summer, thoroughly check your knit items for signs of pests or other problems.

Insect prevention

Another important aspect of knitwear storage is protecting your items from potential pests. This recommendation is for natural fibers such as wool or cotton. Insects aren’t normally attracted to yarn made of 100% synthetic fibers.

To prevent moth damage, store your knits with cedar blocks or lavender sachets, both of which act as natural repellents. You can also store items in garment bags or plastic bags if your stash is particularly susceptible to infestations.

If you’ve already found a moth or beetle in your knitwear drawer, brace yourself for a thorough cleanup. A single moth can turn into an infestation seemingly overnight.

• Shake out any affected items outdoors.
• Freeze the affected garments for at least 48 hours to kill any remaining pests / eggs.
• Wash the affected items and repair as needed.
• Vaccuum your storage area and wipe it down with diluted lavendar or cedar oil.

4. Repairs

Addressing repairs quickly is crucial to extending the life of your knit garments.

Repairing snags

A snag, when the yarn is pulled but not broken, is an easy fix. Though if left untreated, the snag could get worse or break, leading to unraveling. Sometimes blocking is all that’s needed to repair a small snag. For larger snags, you’ll need to grab a crochet hook and carefully feed the excess yarn into the stitches on either side.

Repairing holes

Holes can occur due to wear, snagging, or accidental damage, but with the right technique, they can be quickly mended. By using methods like duplicate stitching or weaving in new yarn, you not only restore the garment’s appearance but also maintain its structural strength.

If left untreated, the stitches will begin to unravel and the hole will expand. That’s why we recommend repairing holes the moment you find them.

Do you have more tips and tricks for extending the life of knitwear? Leave them in the comments below! And feel free to share links to any helpful articles.